Making it work

Saturday, April 13, 2019 – It takes a lot of work to have an adventure! 

A tribute, of sorts, to those working on my ship, only a small fraction of whom I thought to capture in photos.  These dedicated individuals, and some couples, spend a lot of time away from home and loved ones to provide enjoyment to complete strangers, and its clear they absolutely wouldn’t want to be anywhere else!

My trip was on the Ocean Diamond, operated by Quark Expeditions.  Quark leases the ship from its owner, and sometimes charters/sublets it to other expedition companies.  It was built in 1974 and rebuilt in the mid-1980s.  At ~400 feet long and ~55 feet wide, it’s one of the largest expedition ships operated by Quark.  It has stabilizers to minimize pitch and roll and an ice-rated hull, so it’s great for exploring the polar regions.

The passenger count on my trip was 180, and I think the crew/staff numbered around 140. There are passenger cabins on 5 decks.  My cabin was on 4, the main deck.  I believe the crew and staff stay on decks 3 and below.  In addition to passenger cabins, the dining room is on deck 3, club lounge on deck 4, main lounge (theatre) and polar library on deck 5, bridge on deck 6 and observation lounge on deck 7, the top deck.

In the background, the Ocean Diamond, my Antarctic adventure ship
Ocean Diamond anchored in Pleneau Bay
Approaching the ship from a zodiac cruise and landing. Some of my shipmates were still making their way down the path in the background.
Getting ready to board!
Lifeboat drill

The expedition crew is comprised exclusively of Quark employees, and includes experts in all things polar—in this case, Antarctica (history, politics, marine mammals, penguins and other birds, glaciers, etc.), activity managers (paddling, kayaking), translators for the big contingents of French and Chinese passengers, photographers and more—and all of them also work as zodiac drivers and landing guides. 

Acknowledging the expedition crew on the final night. Hard to recognize them in street clothes!!

They offload and reload the 18-20 zodiacs, 35ish kayaks and 180 passengers up to three times per day.  They drive the zodiacs and spot wildlife, etc., 3-4 hours per day, and guide at the landings. Then they mingle with the passengers at dinner. If breakfast starts at 7:30a, they are up and working by 6a.  After long days of managing their respective responsibilities, they meet to pull together a daily recap, which always includes slide shows, photos, unique experiences and sightings, a preview of the plans for the next day and usually a big dose of humor! They always have a smile on their faces and a kind word to say to whomever they run across, day or night. Their comradery is intense, as they are literally each other’s lifelines. They seem to never sleep. 

Kayakers among the sea ice
Loading the zodiacs onto the ship
Zodiacs and kayaks stored on the stern
Zodiacs run up onto a sea ice float

There were about 8 crew members and a professional photographer who were also on my trip to the Arctic last year.  They greeted me like a long-time friend and checked in with me often to ensure I was comfy and having a good time.  When I got to my cabin the first day, there was a note from the guest services manager, thanking me for choosing Quark again.  The entire crew made me feel special. The great part of that is every other passenger I spoke with felt they were getting special treatment, too! 

Manda! She was my first zodiac driver in the Arctic
Sam explaining why the ice behind her is translucent… its an iceberg that recently flipped over. She is also one of the French interpreters
Kyle, my photographer buddy who I met last year in the Arctic!
Sam and Erin with the auction prize I won

And of course there’s a ship doctor. Aside from treating mostly minor illnesses, and one pretty sick guy, Dr. Gary handed out seasickness medicine like candy 🙂 Luckily, I was spared the sickness, but many passengers didn’t fare so well. Many wore Scopalamine patches throughout the voyage.

The expedition leader manages the entire expedition crew.  She organizes the daily recap and all shipboard announcements, spends countless hours conferring with the captain about routes and landing areas, and is where the buck stops in terms of passenger safety and satisfaction. She was a firecracker with a quick smile and helpful spirit.

Expedition leader, Laurie, addressing the passengers as we cross the Antarctic Circle

Operating like a hotel, the ship’s staff includes a 24-hour reception desk, kitchen staff, wait staff, bartenders, cabin stewards and a spa! These people are from all over the world, predominantly, though, from the Philippines and Eastern Europe.  Their employment on the ship supports their families at home while they work 5-6 months straight with hardly a day off.  The same wait staff serves breakfast at 7am with a smile, lunch at noon with a laugh and dinner at 8 with lots of questions about our day and a twinkle in their eyes.  By the second day, they remember your name and what you like to drink. Pretty darn amazing for a new 180 passenger faces every 10-14 days!

Jill, an Australian woman I met, celebrated her birthday the last night on the ship
The kitchen staff being introduced by the hotel manager
Cabin stewards, Tony and Reggie, who cleaned my cabin every day
Aza, one of my favorite servers. Always a big smile! He is fluent in five languages and learning two more!

The Captain and his crew stay on or near the bridge at all times, sleeping in shifts in nearby cabins in order to maintain a full crew on the bridge.  They are friendly, but very serious and focused on the navigation, thankfully!  The bridge is open 24×7 unless there’s a pilot on board, as when we were cruising the Beagle Channel between Ushuaia and the Drake Channel. Stay out of the way and pick your time to speak. Your questions will be answered and you can be there for as long as you want.  Its pretty intriguing and I spent hours there over several days, observing both the crew and the scenery.

Navigating through the brash ice
Getting ready to drop anchor
Bridge
Captain Oleg Klaptenko
The tug delivering the pilot to guide us back to Ushuaia through the Beagle Channel. The tug pulls alongside the ship and the pilot jumps from the tug to the ship while everything is moving!!

Then there are the invisible ones that keep the engines running, make repairs whenever and wherever needed and keep all things below decks operating smoothly.  They are gregarious and friendly when you happen upon them, and they seem to truly enjoy their work like everyone else on the ship.

I booked my passage in late January for an early March departure. I talked to passengers who had booked over 18 months in advance!  I guess it takes all kinds…

A lot of work goes into making it safe and fun for people taking an adventure cruise. I’ve done two adventures now with Quark Expeditions, and it would be hard to convince me that any other company can come close to the service, comfort and attention to detail they provide.  In addition, their dedication to sustainability and environmentally responsible tourism are admirable.

On a final note, at least for now, if you have an opportunity to see Antarctica, make it happen… you’ll have no regrets!  It was a trip of a lifetime for me…